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Climbs 52
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

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Paul Cox on the excellent upper wall of Hanger Them High (6a+) at Bosco's Gulch © Mark Glaister

Crag features

Great wall/cave,in sun 12-15 sport routes with LOs. Bird ban only applies as far as paddling pool and the routes above in the cave e.g Snatch,Squeal like a hog.

All year climbing possible on the Gulch which has been re-geared and vandalised LO's replaced.

Approach notes

Tidal, but can ab in then jumar out from lower-offs. Budgie bans March-Aug(only in Squeal like a Hog cave) due to inconvenient choughs, although these are some distance away at Bacon Hole. Do make a noisy visit to Bacon hole to look at the potential for some 8+ climbing which is geared up with large glue-ins. Gower hill-billy anti-bolters have stolen/damaged some lower-offs but the routes in the Gulch have been re-geared, ironic as the LOs were meant to leave ledges undisturbed for sea birds.

Access Advice

The seasonal climbing restriction applies to the zawn east of Minchin Hole (no routes currently) and from Bocso's Cave to Quartz Corner. Bosco's Wall and Bosco's Gulch are not affected by the seasonal restriction. Bosco's Cave itself is highly important as an archaelogical and conservation site and climbing is not permited in the cave itself.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

All routes from "Snatch" to Quartz Corner, including Bucketland and Bacon hole (pernament restriction) are subject to the seasonal restriction.

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Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
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