UKC

Climbs 93
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces all

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Preposterous Tales © Dan Arkle

Crag features

Bosherston Head is the broad promontory between Huntsman's Leap and Saddle Head with huge solid faces on all sides. Despite this vast expanse of rock it has never been that popular mainly due to the intimidating nature of the climbing - you can't get a good view of it and the stuff you can see tends to be in the higher grades, plus the fact that we omitted the celebrated South Face from the last Rockfax guide. 

The most popular spot on the headland is the Keelhaul Wall; a fine compact wall of excellent rock with a quartet of class routes - Ghost Ship (E3), Intensive Scare (E2), Baker's Door (E1) and Keelhaul (E2). Next door is the dramatic leaning wall made infamous by the controversial route The Big Issue (E9) and adjacent to this is the stylish Ivory Tower (E2). Moving further round, the South Face is glorious, smacking of wild abseils, grand-scale adventure and seat-of-the-pants daring. This is partly because it's impossible to gain a decent view of your chosen route before engaging, and partly because this terrific hunk of rock is home to one of Pembroke's finest adventures - Preposterous Tales, going at the thoroughly unlikely (caving) grade of HVS, or the E2 we give it here! However, if you are really in search of emotional and soul-searching leads of E4 and above, on wonderful rock, giving you an experience which you will be talking about for years, then you need look no further than the Star Wars area.

Approach notes

Park at St Govans and walk west past Huntsmans Leap. Bosherston is the next headland.

Restricted Access

Superb crag with many different sections. The restriction affects the routes Star Wars to The Deerhunter.  

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restriction, to protect nesting Choughs, affects the routes Star Wars to Deerhunter. 

 

 

 

 

I triggered a fairly big rockfall in the corner where the Ab in is at the top of KeelHaul. Still looks a bit rotten, take care
ChristineR - 02/Sep/19
Why not add something like `Don't miss the climbing here when dry fresh conditions prevail'. ahem-greasiness-ahem
Paz - 15/Apr/05
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Climbs at this crag

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