UKC

69m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A shy classic that features some precarious, technical groove climbing on immaculate rock. Start at the base of the reddish left-slanting rake.
1) 4c, 29m. Follow the reddish rake for a few metres before branching up right to enter the base of a large overhung niche. Climb up the back of the niche and make a trying traverse right to easier ground and block-belays. An awkward pitch.
2) 5c, 20m. Traverse left along the top of the overhung niche past a back streak and pull into a slim groove. Climb the technical groove past a peg to a ledge and than make more hard moves left and up another groove to a belay ledge.
3) 5c, 20m. From the left-hand end of the belay ledge climb leftwards with difficulty to easier-angled ground and finish up cracks and grooves. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Definitive *** West Cornwall , South West in Extremis

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tall Oak 15 May Show βeta
βeta: I only lead pitch 2 and had a meltdown on the crux of that section. Shocking protection by me. Every time I laid down pro it ripped out. Let Steve hang around, cold and bored for over an hour (thanks for the patience). Finally went for it with no pro. Exhausted from the battle. Got to the ledge of Suicide Wall and set up a pre-belay to bring Steve up as the CC notes were completely wrong and was not prepared to go into Mordor once more. Luckily reinforcements arrived with Steve taking lead up to the large bay. P3\'s crux is tricky beast too.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I only lead pitch 2 and had a meltdown on the crux of that section. Shocking protection by me. Every time I laid down pro it ripped out. Let Steve hang around, cold and bored for over an hour (thanks for the patience). Finally went for it with no pro. Exhausted from the battle. Got to the ledge of Suicide Wall and set up a pre-belay to bring Steve up as the CC notes were completely wrong and was not prepared to go into Mordor once more. Luckily reinforcements arrived with Steve taking lead up to the large bay. P3's crux is tricky beast too.

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bow Wall

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Bosigran)

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