A fine alternative to the upper reaches of Toad Wall Special. Start from a big flake belay halfway up the top pitch of Toad Wall Special, beneath its thin, finishing crack. This belay can be easily reached from Doorway, or from the right traversing across from Little Brown Jug. Both alternative approaches use parts of Boysen’s Variant, though reading the guidebook description of BV, you’d be hard pushed to know! The general confusion around where BV goes probably explains why such an obvious line remained unclimbed until now.

Move up to the thin finishing crack of Toad Wall Special, then hand traverse the fine break into big corner of Doorway / Thin Wall Special. Gain the cramped niche below the roof – Thin Wall Special moves right from here – and from its left rib, stretch out to a good hold on the lip of the roof. Finish up the right-leaning flake. Very long (8ft) extenders on gear at the back of the roof should ensure a drag-free exit.

Neil Foster, Clare Reading 11/Sep/2023.

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