UKC

27m.

Rockfax Description
Tough but rewarding crack climbing. Climb the line of the vegetated corner via the slab on its right to below the much steeper upper corner. Work strenuously up the corner and finish on the left.
The Peck Variant, HVS 5a. Traverse right at the top of the upper corner to add some good moves. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Fav Southern(ish) Cracks

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User Date Notes
PHTanner 19 Mar Show βeta
βeta: There is a chock stone in the crack that is a bit loose.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is a chock stone in the crack that is a bit loose.
laurafraser-smith 28 Apr, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: To round off a weekend at Bosi, Ben lead up this HVS, keen to try something hard and test out his new crack gloves. He smashed the lead, followed by Alex seconding it, and Tom and I top roping it after. The first section was a pretty green slab, but the fun started when you got to the crack on a very steep face. I avoided any real hand jams, opting for lay backs instead. I definitely need to have more jamming practice! The foot jams were good though. With a small rest (partly assisted by the rope) I got up, and was very happy to do so. It good to test my physical ability (poor atm) and it was a perfect climb to round off the weekend. My knee, however, was less happy as I managed to reopen the 3-month-old scar on my knee and bleeding everywhere! That's granite for you...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: To round off a weekend at Bosi, Ben lead up this HVS, keen to try something hard and test out his new crack gloves. He smashed the lead, followed by Alex seconding it, and Tom and I top roping it after. The first section was a pretty green slab, but the fun started when you got to the crack on a very steep face. I avoided any real hand jams, opting for lay backs instead. I definitely need to have more jamming practice! The foot jams were good though. With a small rest (partly assisted by the rope) I got up, and was very happy to do so. It good to test my physical ability (poor atm) and it was a perfect climb to round off the weekend. My knee, however, was less happy as I managed to reopen the 3-month-old scar on my knee and bleeding everywhere! That's granite for you...

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 21
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Saxon Direct

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Kenidjack Cliffs)

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