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Climbs 600
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 100m a.s.l

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Following the Breadcrumb Trail in Bovey Woods © Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing

Crag features

A huge area comprising of five main sectors - Shaptor Rock, Lower Shaptor, Rock Copse, Bearacleave and Stonelands Waste. Classic problems of all grades but be prepared to invest a little time in 'getting orientated'.

 

Approach notes

Keep a low profile and treat with respect - this is a beautiful, ancient and (mainly) litter free wood. Please park considerately, brush off chalk and remove all finger tape (and other litter). Land owned by Woodland Trust and National Trust.

Restricted Access

Bovey Woods covers an area owned by several landowners, including the National Trust and Woodland Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at Bearacleave and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulder, but also some other issues. Please keep the following points in mind when visiting the area to avoid the situation deteriorating:  

  • Try to keep cleaning/de-vegging to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to you as a climber, but the landowner and other users may not agree. Clean holds individually rather than stripping entire boulders of vegetation.

  • Brush off excess chalk and tick marks before you move on to the next problem. Chalk can be really noticeable to non-climbers and detract from their experiance of an unspoilt environment, so remove as much as possible before leaving a problem.

  • Avoid using this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.

  • Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.

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