UKC

Restricted Access

Restricted Access

Shaptor Wood is owned by the Woodland Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at this and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulders, but also some other issues. Please follow the Respect the Rock code as well as the following site specific access code of conduct:  

No new development - there are in excess of 700 exisiting lines across Bovey Woods as a whole and further development would mean more cleaning and removal of important mosses and lichens. This is a real concern to the landowners and continued development and new cleaning could result in loss of access.

Keep cleaning to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to a climber, but to the landowner it looks a lot like environmental damage. Keep individual holds clean, don't strip entire faces of vegetation.

Chalk really stands out in the environment, so remove as much as possible from the rock before leaving a problem.

Please don't use this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.

Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.

Rockfax Description
The tall slab is good when clean. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climbers Club Dartmoor (2017) P64.

The obvious high slab just left of The Terrier wall and opposite Dog Length block. Climb the right side of the slab, moving slightly left at the top onto prominent chunky holds and a high crux.

The start of the slab can be climbed to the left of the original at about F6b.

Simon Mooney.

Ticklists

Bouldering

Feedback

User Date Notes
chudders1 2 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Either I was off line or there are fewer holds as you gain height ! Very interesting at V0
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Either I was off line or there are fewer holds as you gain height ! Very interesting at V0

Logged Ascents

5 users have logged this
2 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High f6A
Mid f6A
Low f6A
High f5+
Mid f5+
Low f5+
High f5
Mid f5
Low f5
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Route of Interest
Twin Cracks

Grade: f5+ ***
(Bonehill Rocks)

Loading Notifications...