Restricted Access
Restricted Access
Shaptor Wood is owned by the Woodland Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at this and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulders, but also some other issues. Please follow the Respect the Rock code as well as the following site specific access code of conduct:
No new development - there are in excess of 700 exisiting lines across Bovey Woods as a whole and further development would mean more cleaning and removal of important mosses and lichens. This is a real concern to the landowners and continued development and new cleaning could result in loss of access.
Keep cleaning to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to a climber, but to the landowner it looks a lot like environmental damage. Keep individual holds clean, don't strip entire faces of vegetation.
Chalk really stands out in the environment, so remove as much as possible from the rock before leaving a problem.
Please don't use this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.
Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.
Rockfax Description
The best moves on the wall. From underclings in the top of the break, stretch to a small sloper (right hand) and crimp (left hand) then levitate to better holds above. Holds out right on Lassie aren't used. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climbers Club Dartmoor (2017) P55.
A good wall problem. Start on undercuts towards the right end of the wall (about a metre right of the blobby undercut). Initially reach up and right to a vague crimp, then make taxing moves to get feet established on the wall.
Tom Rainbow 2014.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| tomrainbow | 2014 |
Show βeta
βeta: A hold on Lassie is used, the crucial sloper for the R hand. Disregard this part of the Rockfax description. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A hold on Lassie is used, the crucial sloper for the R hand. Disregard this part of the Rockfax description. |
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Logged Ascents
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Mufasa
Grade: f6C ***
(Cartoonlands)