UKC

Restricted Access

Restricted Access

Shaptor Wood is owned by the Woodland Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at this and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulders, but also some other issues. Please follow the Respect the Rock code as well as the following site specific access code of conduct:  

No new development - there are in excess of 700 exisiting lines across Bovey Woods as a whole and further development would mean more cleaning and removal of important mosses and lichens. This is a real concern to the landowners and continued development and new cleaning could result in loss of access.

Keep cleaning to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to a climber, but to the landowner it looks a lot like environmental damage. Keep individual holds clean, don't strip entire faces of vegetation.

Chalk really stands out in the environment, so remove as much as possible from the rock before leaving a problem.

Please don't use this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.

Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.

Rockfax Description
A sitting start with both hands on the left-hand section of the ledge. Rock over onto the ledge to reach the lip of the boulder and wander up right. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Back of Right Slapper boulder. From obvious ledge rock up to arete and climb arete rightward to finish.

Tom Rainbow.

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Logged Ascents

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High f6A
Mid f6A
Low f6A
High f5+
Mid f5+
Low f5+
High f5
Mid f5
Low f5
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Repeated
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Slab

Grade: f5+ ***
(Lustleigh Cleave)

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