UKC

Restricted Access

Restricted Access

Shaptor Wood is owned by the Woodland Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at this and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulders, but also some other issues. Please follow the Respect the Rock code as well as the following site specific access code of conduct:  

No new development - there are in excess of 700 exisiting lines across Bovey Woods as a whole and further development would mean more cleaning and removal of important mosses and lichens. This is a real concern to the landowners and continued development and new cleaning could result in loss of access.

Keep cleaning to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to a climber, but to the landowner it looks a lot like environmental damage. Keep individual holds clean, don't strip entire faces of vegetation.

Chalk really stands out in the environment, so remove as much as possible from the rock before leaving a problem.

Please don't use this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.

Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.

Rockfax Description
Climb the underside of the boulder from sitting. Start with your right hand on a juggy flake and funk your way up the overhanging prow (no use of the supporting block at this grade - f6A with the block). © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climbers Club Dartmoor (2017) P12.

On Ellen's Boulder. Climbs the underside of the boulder from sitting (right hand on juggy flake) to finish up the overhanging prow, without the use of the supporting block. Lots of heel hooking fun. Originally climbed using the supporting block at f6A.

Mark McManus.

Ticklists

Devon Bouldering (with a few honorary problems from Cornwall)

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Voting
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
High f6C
Mid f6C
Low f6C
High f6B+
Mid f6B+
Low f6B+
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hung Like a Chimp

Grade: f7A ***
(Lustleigh Cleave)

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