UKC

Rockfax Description
A popular expedition that scales the large pinnacle situated up and to the right of the approach path. Start about 10m up and right of the base of the pinnacle.
1) 4a, 18m. Head up the gully briefly to where a traverse line leads back leftwards towards a wide crack. Balance left to the crack, then make some delicate moves up the narrowing crack to gain a belay at a ledge and boulder.
2) 4a, 25m. Stand on the boulder and make worrying moves right to gain the chimney-crack. Head up this to a sorry excuse for a tree. Using the stump for hand and footholds, make your way up to a bay just below the top. From here climb the left wall to the top of the left tower and belay. © Rockfax

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Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS

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User Date Notes
gcombe 21 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Current guide book gives this VD and I'd agree. Climbing the pinnacle direct requires the use of v small holds, easier to bridge as high as possible before moving across. Jumping appears to be an act of lunacy so a sketchy down climb is required before climbing up to belay on the left hand butress
 
Show beta
βeta: Current guide book gives this VD and I'd agree. Climbing the pinnacle direct requires the use of v small holds, easier to bridge as high as possible before moving across. Jumping appears to be an act of lunacy so a sketchy down climb is required before climbing up to belay on the left hand butress

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Route of Interest

Direct from Lord's Rake to Hopkinson's Cairn

Grade: S 4a ***
(Scafell Crag)
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