UKC

115m, 4 pitches. Climbs an open groove line on the right edge of the buttress. Start just left of North Gully. P1 (4): Follow a line on the right hand side of the buttress past a tricky slab and a snowy ledge to a stance on the right hand side of the next ledge, above North Gully. P2 (4): Go up from the stance to a wide snowy ledge below a steep wall. Move a few metres left and torque up a crack in the wall to a sloping snowy ledge above. Move right along this to a good stance on the edge of the buttress, above North Gully. P3 (4/5): Traverse into North Gully (two lines possible, the upper one is harder), then climb an excellent chimney to a spike belay. P4 (4/5, sustained): Move rightwards to the base of an obvious groove and climb turf and thin neve to a good rock belay. A short snow saddle followed by some easy ground leads to the top.

FA. R.Graham, L.Steer 10/Jan/1991.

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Route of Interest
Little Stanger Gill

Grade: IV 4 ***
(Little Stanger Gill)

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