UKC

70m. Overhanging chimney slot to the right of Little Big Chimney. High in the grade, but easier and better protected than its more imposing twin to the left. Start 5m right of Little Big Chimney.
1. 25m Climb the chimney over a bulge with a chokestone, to a niche.
2. 25m Continue up the overhanging slot and short continuation corner to a ledge.
3. 20m Move up a slab and climb the slabby corner above to the final snow slope. Alternatively move right and finish up the final chimney of Comanche (better and easier if the slab is bare).

Ticklists

Chasing the Ephemeral

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User Date Notes
Robertgiddy 12 Jan, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: We couldn’t descend great gully due to cornices, and could find no boulders that we were happy to abb off despite very little snow on the plateau, nor did we fancy a snow bollard given the snow conditions. We wandered around and spotted a blocky area a bit below the plateau edge towards crown buttress that we were happy down climbing to. Abbing from here deposited is right at the start of the route. Obviously this option too has the potential to become impossible when there is more snow, but a useful option to have.
Show beta
βeta: We couldn’t descend great gully due to cornices, and could find no boulders that we were happy to abb off despite very little snow on the plateau, nor did we fancy a snow bollard given the snow conditions. We wandered around and spotted a blocky area a bit below the plateau edge towards crown buttress that we were happy down climbing to. Abbing from here deposited is right at the start of the route. Obviously this option too has the potential to become impossible when there is more snow, but a useful option to have.

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High VI
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High IV
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High 7
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Style of Ascent
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Onsighted
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Route of Interest
The Genie

Grade: V 7 ***
(Cairn Gorm - Stob Coire an t-Sneachda)

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