UKC

Restricted Access

Cafe open on weekends and most of the summer months. No camping but small bunkhouse may be available - ask at the Nat. Trust office on site.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 27 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Owls occasionally nest in the Pig Traverse Area (they have nested 2022). Signage will be posted  - please avoid this area if this is the case.
15m.

Rockfax Description
16m. The classic of the crag. Climb a groove then move rightwards to a ledge on the arete. Traverse the shelf (an ancient chipped hold, plus a huge cam and/or small wires might be of help) leftwards to the base of the left-trending groove. Balance up this to the top. A Direct Start is 6a and a finish up the arete on the right is a little harder and bolder than the original finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start just to the left of the arete on the left side of 'Lover's Leap'. Climb the short wall till you can step onto the arete, good wires protect. It is then possible to move left and up (chipped hold) to the fine open groove/ramp.Can also be finished by stepping right onto a rib and mantleshelf finish. One of Brimham's best known classics.

Brian Evans, Allan Austin. FRA 20/Mar/1955.

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven , Rockfax Northern England Top 50 , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The All New 3 Star Way to Yorkshire Gritstone Heaven. , Brimham VS Challenge , Rockfax Top 50 - Northern England , Rocksport Top Ten Grit Routes , York University Students path to greatness , Yorkshire Grit Vol 1 Best VS , 100 Best Routes on Grit , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Diffage Comp , Fav Climbs , Morgan's List

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User Date Notes
C Witter 11 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Just enough gear, without XL cams, but fiddly at the traverse as placements are worn. Right slot is very directional (the wrong way) so take care.
Show beta
βeta: Just enough gear, without XL cams, but fiddly at the traverse as placements are worn. Right slot is very directional (the wrong way) so take care.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 161
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 153
Votes cast 157
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
ArĂȘte Direct

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Simon's Seat)

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