Rockfax Description
16m. The classic of the crag. Climb a groove then move rightwards to a ledge on the arete. Traverse the shelf (an ancient chipped hold, plus a huge cam and/or small wires might be of help) leftwards to the base of the left-trending groove. Balance up this to the top. A Direct Start is 6a and a finish up the arete on the right is a little harder and bolder than the original finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start just to the left of the arete on the left side of 'Lover's Leap'. Climb the short wall till you can step onto the arete, good wires protect. It is then possible to move left and up (chipped hold) to the fine open groove/ramp.Can also be finished by stepping right onto a rib and mantleshelf finish. One of Brimham's best known classics.
Brian Evans, Allan Austin. FRA 20/Mar/1955.
The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven , Rockfax Northern England Top 50 , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The All New 3 Star Way to Yorkshire Gritstone Heaven. , Brimham VS Challenge , Rockfax Top 50 - Northern England , Rocksport Top Ten Grit Routes , York University Students path to greatness , Yorkshire Grit Vol 1 Best VS , 100 Best Routes on Grit , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Diffage Comp , Fav Climbs , Morgan's List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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C Witter | 11 Oct, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Just enough gear, without XL cams, but fiddly at the traverse as placements are worn. Right slot is very directional (the wrong way) so take care. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Just enough gear, without XL cams, but fiddly at the traverse as placements are worn. Right slot is very directional (the wrong way) so take care. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Malham Cove)