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Rockfax Description
16m. The classic of the crag. Climb a groove then move rightwards to a ledge on the arete. Traverse the shelf (an ancient chipped hold, plus a huge cam and/or small wires might be of help) leftwards to the base of the left-trending groove. Balance up this to the top. A Direct Start is 6a and a finish up the arete on the right is a little harder and bolder than the original finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start just to the left of the arete on the left side of 'Lover's Leap'. Climb the short wall till you can step onto the arete, good wires protect. It is then possible to move left and up (chipped hold) to the fine open groove/ramp.Can also be finished by stepping right onto a rib and mantleshelf finish. One of Brimham's best known classics.

Brian Evans, Allan Austin. FRA 20/Mar/1955.


The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven, Rockfax Northern England Top 50, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The All New 3 Star Way to Yorkshire Gritstone Heaven., Brimham VS Challenge, Rockfax Top 50 - Northern England, Rocksport Top Ten Grit Routes, York University Students path to greatness, Yorkshire Grit Vol 1 Best VS


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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 141
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 134
Votes cast 138
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Right-Hand Crack

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Brimham Rocks)