UKC

12m.

Rockfax Description
14m. The slanting widening fissure is a classic of its genre. The lower section is steady enough until things turn pear-shaped, then abandon all technique and swim for your life. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
THE LINE on Castle Rock.Follow the slightly offset crackline left of Jabberwok to an elephantine finish. Not a t-shirt and shorts climb. A rh variant start is about 5c taking the vague groove running out of the bottom of the upper crack by climbing up and slightly left.

Poss E.Y.M.C. Pre 1957..

Ticklists

Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles , Wide Cracks , The Dirty Dozen , Yorkshire Off Widths , Thrutch and Clutch , UK road to wide crack mastery , The All New 3 Star Way to Yorkshire Gritstone Heaven. , York University Students path to greatness

Feedback

User Date Notes
StatementOfFox 26 Nov, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Faced left initially and made it to the final bulge, was stuck for around 45 minutes. A heavily desperate switch allowed the finish to go, which was still hard effort. Hard for HVS and worth it to do with large green cam or perhaps a purple if nothing else!
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βeta: Faced left initially and made it to the final bulge, was stuck for around 45 minutes. A heavily desperate switch allowed the finish to go, which was still hard effort. Hard for HVS and worth it to do with large green cam or perhaps a purple if nothing else!
Stanley 13 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: I felt like I’d been run over when I pulled onto the top. I’ve never understood what people meant when they said they were ‘trying so hard they thought they were going to throw up.’ Until today. Beautiful climbing until around two-thirds height, then move up the crack with interest. Absolutely savage. 4*.
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βeta: I felt like I’d been run over when I pulled onto the top. I’ve never understood what people meant when they said they were ‘trying so hard they thought they were going to throw up.’ Until today. Beautiful climbing until around two-thirds height, then move up the crack with interest. Absolutely savage. 4*.
Alice Thompson 21 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Thought I was going to fall and then I didn\'t. Amazing
βeta?
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βeta: Thought I was going to fall and then I didn't. Amazing
Jessica_G 23 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Beautiful gritstone climbing, until the huge off width crack at the end, with a fabulously good hold in a frustratingly unhelpful position teases you into thinking you’re done, until a battle of bum jamming, head jamming, use of knees, elbows heels and arse to desperately squirm up to reach a shallow crimp full of crystals which was just enough to bridge across two awful green foot smears and desperately pop my foot up to a better hold to then launch my tired body over the top. (A large cam helps the fall out of the crack at the top) A character building route for sure. A right of passage on Brimham grit? (So I’m told)
Show beta
βeta: Beautiful gritstone climbing, until the huge off width crack at the end, with a fabulously good hold in a frustratingly unhelpful position teases you into thinking you’re done, until a battle of bum jamming, head jamming, use of knees, elbows heels and arse to desperately squirm up to reach a shallow crimp full of crystals which was just enough to bridge across two awful green foot smears and desperately pop my foot up to a better hold to then launch my tired body over the top. (A large cam helps the fall out of the crack at the top) A character building route for sure. A right of passage on Brimham grit? (So I’m told)
OLGrady 2 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Oddly enjoyed this. Got to the crux and spent the next 40 minutes slowly inching my way up. Progress was exhausting but immensely fun. No lost skin but the full body ache the next day was undesirable. A proper butch grit outing, defi etly give it a go.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Oddly enjoyed this. Got to the crux and spent the next 40 minutes slowly inching my way up. Progress was exhausting but immensely fun. No lost skin but the full body ache the next day was undesirable. A proper butch grit outing, defi etly give it a go.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 58
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 51
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hatter's Groove

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Brimham Rocks)

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