Rockfax Description
100m. This route finds a line up the big arête right of The Giant and offers bold climbing in an impressive situation. It has jumped a grade as previous in situ pegs have now gone. Start below a groove leading directly up to the main corner system of The Giant.
1. 35m 5b Climb the groove and, where it forks, keep right up a flake-crack to reach a ledge at the top of the initial ramp of The Giant.
2. 30m 6a Above is a smooth groove right of The Giant. Climb its left-hand rib (technical crux) to a break at 10m. Move right across the groove onto the steep slab, traverse right to the arête and step up (micro-wires). Continue traversing right along a footledge, then step up to a ledge.
3. 35m 6a Follow a left-slanting slabby corner to a niche below a roof and place a runner in the lip. Climb delicately down left to a good foothold near the arête. Step up left and climb a break in the overhang to gain a sloping ledge. Climb a short steep wall to a ledge in a niche. Climb the overhanging crack above to a large ledge and spike which provides a popular abseil point. A 50m abseil on rope stretch reaches easy ground on the big ramp. To go to the plateau: step up right and follow cracks and a corner as for Ascent of Man (5a and scrambling).
FA P.Whillance, P.Botterill, M.Hamilton, R.Anderson, 1 Aug 1982 © Rockfax
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Grade: E5 6a ***
(Craig Stirling)