Rockfax Description
130m. This sustained and exposed route takes the lower of two ramps leading up left to link with the top pitches of The Naked Ape. It offers slabbier climbing than other routes on this part of the wall. Low in the grade. Start at the foot of Central Gully, on the top of a mound with embedded blocks, at a groove.
1. 25m 5c Climb a flake-crack on the right to gain the groove. Follow the groove, initially with difficulty, then more easily up to a small square-cut ledge (a belay is optional but gives less rope drag on the subsequent technical crux).
2. 15m 6a Move left across the wall, then regain the corner. Step down left and gain a crack leading back into the fault, which leads to a belay.
3. 15m Climb across the slab to an old peg belay.
4. 40m 6a Go left across the upper slab to place high runners, then return to the belay. Step down to gain a lower slab. Cross the slab to the arête, step sensationally left round this and climb straight up to enter a groove. Climb this to its top; to protect the second it is advisable to split the ropes and return right on the upper slab to place another runner. Move left to gain a groove leading to the stance on The Naked Ape at the end of its second pitch. Very bold without the high runners; take care with rope drag.
5. 25m 6a The Naked Ape pitch 3 to the abseil point (or continue to the plateau, initially 5a).
FA M.Hamilton, R.Anderson, 12 Aug 1983 © Rockfax

Ticklists

Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , UK Lonely Leads , The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , Gary's Ticklist E3-E5 , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , 4 Star Scottish rock , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist

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