Rockfax Description
140m. Varied climbing with some excellent positions on the slightly less steep section of face above the start of Raven's Gully. Graded HVS in the first Coe guide to use E grades. Start 6m below and left of Raven's Gully.
1) 4a, 30m. Climb a series of right-trending slabby grooves to a large flake beneath the black stained crack of Shibboleth. Go right towards the foot of a dark stained corner (The New Testament) at the top of a slab corner-crack. Traverse right for 3m round an awkward square-cut edge.
2) 5b, 50m. Climb the prominent V-groove above the belay. Step left into a parallel groove and continue to an overhang. Climb this and the steep groove above to a stance beneath a right-facing slab corner. Climb the slab and groove on the right to below a thin diagonal crack in the steep wall above, a bold pitch.
3) 5b, 30m. From the left end of the ledge, climb the diagonal crack in the steep wall above to easier ground leading to a narrow ledge. Move left to gain the ramp on pitch 5 of Shibboleth.
4) 4b, 30m. Climb the wall above and trend rightwards by grooves to a platform. Finish by an overhanging corner. This is Shibboleth's original finish. © Rockfax
The Road to Shibboleth , Great Scottish E1 Mountain Routes , Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2 , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Jimmy Marshall Routes , Gary Latter's Ticklist (Extremes) , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , Scotland climbing , The must dos very soon
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Martin McKenna - Rockfax | 29 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Probably one of the more reliable route on the wall if others are seeping. Deserves E2 I\'d say. Bold in places. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Probably one of the more reliable route on the wall if others are seeping. Deserves E2 I'd say. Bold in places. |
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Grade: E2 5c ***
(Diabaig)