A link up of the routes Bludgers and Revelation. A classic.
1. 15m Starting at the base of slime wall climb to reach 2 prominent corner's.
2. 25m 5a Climb the left most corner that often seeps in its lower half to a ledge with peg belay
3. 25m 4c Step down and left, traversing round the corner and past a prominent detached spike. Continue upwards to a large sloping ledge.
4. 25m 4b Move right off the ledge round the corner to gain ramps. Move up these keeping a look out on the left higher ramp for block belay.
5. 30m 4c Continue up ramps towards Flake of Revelation. Climb this in an excellent exposed position, to a small ledge.
6. 20m 4a Follow the flake upwards and onto North Buttress
Ticklists
Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch , Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Ultimate HVS ticklist , The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland , The Great Gumclub Ticklist , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , EUMC - Must do climbs , Libby Peter's HVS Hit List , Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2 , Summer 2021 , 4 Star Scottish rock , Dan's Scottish Summer Hopefuls , A.P's summer , Lairig hitlist , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs **** , 100 Classic Climbs | Scotland Central & Southern Highlands , To Do , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , Scotland climbing , The must dos very soon , Scotland Ticklist , Banfords Road Trip Ticklist , Picos Preparation , Summer Psyche , Scotland
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| matthew885 | 16 May |
Show βeta
βeta: Note to HVS leaders... The 2nd pitch starts at a 2m block/flake that is still attached to the wall, the pitch goes directly up from it. The ledge belay at the top of pitch 2 really needs a red size 3 dragon cam, otherwise there are only small offset wires and a medium-ish peg. Pitch 3 starts climbing hard left (not down) from the belay ledge, is solid 5a (crucial hold is missing) and has no runners for 6m. A fall would be directly onto the belay. The block belay at the end of the link pitch is very loose and awkward to reach. There are 2 pegs above the block that seem good but the surrounding rock is hollow, there is a shallow nut placement, not inspiring! To reach the revelation flake there are 2 Options. You can traverse down and right round onto the main face or you can continue up and right, as JM himself does in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSVPZVRD920, if you do go up and right there is only 1 laughably old ring peg until you reach the flake. The route is excellent, the belays are not. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Note to HVS leaders... The 2nd pitch starts at a 2m block/flake that is still attached to the wall, the pitch goes directly up from it. The ledge belay at the top of pitch 2 really needs a red size 3 dragon cam, otherwise there are only small offset wires and a medium-ish peg. Pitch 3 starts climbing hard left (not down) from the belay ledge, is solid 5a (crucial hold is missing) and has no runners for 6m. A fall would be directly onto the belay. The block belay at the end of the link pitch is very loose and awkward to reach. There are 2 pegs above the block that seem good but the surrounding rock is hollow, there is a shallow nut placement, not inspiring! To reach the revelation flake there are 2 Options. You can traverse down and right round onto the main face or you can continue up and right, as JM himself does in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSVPZVRD920, if you do go up and right there is only 1 laughably old ring peg until you reach the flake. The route is excellent, the belays are not. |
||||
| Neil D | 14 May |
Show βeta
βeta: The jug hold at the start of pitch 3 that previous commenters mentioned as loose is now gone and probably makes this pitch also 5a. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: The jug hold at the start of pitch 3 that previous commenters mentioned as loose is now gone and probably makes this pitch also 5a. |
||||
| Flew | 11 May |
Show βeta
βeta: Climbed few days before my 65th. Thought start of pitch 3 quite bold having climbed the wall directly after rounding the arête from the belay rather than few m left as per guidebook. Run out 5a but good solid rock. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Climbed few days before my 65th. Thought start of pitch 3 quite bold having climbed the wall directly after rounding the arête from the belay rather than few m left as per guidebook. Run out 5a but good solid rock. |
||||
| Jon Read | 26 Sep, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: On first acquaintance, it's hard to identify the correct groove/corner of P2. P1 (Rockfax/SMC) ends at a ledge system under the conspicuous but small square roof; the 'detached flake' at the start of P2 is just to the right of this. Hope this helps! Btw, the remains of the peg belay at the top of P2 was just lying on the ledge; good cams/nuts instead. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: On first acquaintance, it's hard to identify the correct groove/corner of P2. P1 (Rockfax/SMC) ends at a ledge system under the conspicuous but small square roof; the 'detached flake' at the start of P2 is just to the right of this. Hope this helps! Btw, the remains of the peg belay at the top of P2 was just lying on the ledge; good cams/nuts instead. |
||||
| fifthsunset | 25 Sep, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax's buttress information says "[Slime Wall] is a misnomer, as the rock is excellent and very compact bubbly rhyolite that is virtually free from vegetation." Unfortunately I stopped reading there and didn't get to the somewhat contradictory bit that says "requires several days of dry weather after extended periods of rain." So my feedback is: avoid Slime Wall if it looks wet. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax's buttress information says "[Slime Wall] is a misnomer, as the rock is excellent and very compact bubbly rhyolite that is virtually free from vegetation." Unfortunately I stopped reading there and didn't get to the somewhat contradictory bit that says "requires several days of dry weather after extended periods of rain." So my feedback is: avoid Slime Wall if it looks wet. |
||||
| GKerr | 12 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: The block belay is easy to find. Just up and left of the ramp in a corner about 6 metres down and left of the flake crack. Two old pegs with a small bit of in-situ cord. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The block belay is easy to find. Just up and left of the ramp in a corner about 6 metres down and left of the flake crack. Two old pegs with a small bit of in-situ cord. |
||||
| Nathan Adam | 23 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: It’s logical to continue the rightwards traverse across on GL’s third pitch towards Shibboleth and belay directly below the Revelation flake. The stance isn’t superb but the gear is good and saves hunting around for wherever that block belay actually is. No change of grade going this way. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: It’s logical to continue the rightwards traverse across on GL’s third pitch towards Shibboleth and belay directly below the Revelation flake. The stance isn’t superb but the gear is good and saves hunting around for wherever that block belay actually is. No change of grade going this way. |
||||
| Gus_w | 26 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: I fully endorse the comment below, topo is usable though | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I fully endorse the comment below, topo is usable though |
||||
| LCWatson | 28 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: The Gary Latter guidebook description of this route is horrendous and leads to a dark place inside yourself. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The Gary Latter guidebook description of this route is horrendous and leads to a dark place inside yourself. |
||||
| Dr Toph | 24 Apr, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lots of tottering loose rock on north buttress, along top of slime wall above other routes. Take great care when scrambling off if anyone else is in the gully or on the cliff! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Lots of tottering loose rock on north buttress, along top of slime wall above other routes. Take great care when scrambling off if anyone else is in the gully or on the cliff! |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Buachaille Etive Mor
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
The Bullroar
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Ben Nevis)