A link up of the routes Bludgers and Revelation. A classic.
1. 15m Starting at the base of slime wall climb to reach 2 prominent corner's.
2. 25m 5a Climb the left most corner that often seeps in its lower half to a ledge with peg belay
3. 25m 4c Step down and left, traversing round the corner and past a prominent detached spike. Continue upwards to a large sloping ledge.
4. 25m 4b Move right off the ledge round the corner to gain ramps. Move up these keeping a look out on the left higher ramp for block belay.
5. 30m 4c Continue up ramps towards Flake of Revelation. Climb this in an excellent exposed position, to a small ledge.
6. 20m 4a Follow the flake upwards and onto North Buttress
Ticklists
Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch , Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Ultimate HVS ticklist , The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland , The Great Gumclub Ticklist , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , EUMC - Must do climbs , Libby Peter's HVS Hit List , Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2 , Summer 2021 , 4 Star Scottish rock , Dan's Scottish Summer Hopefuls , A.P's summer , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs **** , 100 Classic Climbs | Scotland Central & Southern Highlands , To Do , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , Scotland climbing , The must dos very soon
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| fifthsunset | 25 Sep |
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βeta: Rockfax's buttress information says "[Slime Wall] is a misnomer, as the rock is excellent and very compact bubbly rhyolite that is virtually free from vegetation." Unfortunately I stopped reading there and didn't get to the somewhat contradictory bit that says "requires several days of dry weather after extended periods of rain." So my feedback is: avoid Slime Wall if it looks wet. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Rockfax's buttress information says "[Slime Wall] is a misnomer, as the rock is excellent and very compact bubbly rhyolite that is virtually free from vegetation." Unfortunately I stopped reading there and didn't get to the somewhat contradictory bit that says "requires several days of dry weather after extended periods of rain." So my feedback is: avoid Slime Wall if it looks wet. |
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| GKerr | 12 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: The block belay is easy to find. Just up and left of the ramp in a corner about 6 metres down and left of the flake crack. Two old pegs with a small bit of in-situ cord. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The block belay is easy to find. Just up and left of the ramp in a corner about 6 metres down and left of the flake crack. Two old pegs with a small bit of in-situ cord. |
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| Nathan Adam | 23 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: It’s logical to continue the rightwards traverse across on GL’s third pitch towards Shibboleth and belay directly below the Revelation flake. The stance isn’t superb but the gear is good and saves hunting around for wherever that block belay actually is. No change of grade going this way. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: It’s logical to continue the rightwards traverse across on GL’s third pitch towards Shibboleth and belay directly below the Revelation flake. The stance isn’t superb but the gear is good and saves hunting around for wherever that block belay actually is. No change of grade going this way. |
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| Gus_w | 26 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: I fully endorse the comment below, topo is usable though | βeta? | |
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βeta: I fully endorse the comment below, topo is usable though |
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| LCWatson | 28 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: The Gary Latter guidebook description of this route is horrendous and leads to a dark place inside yourself. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The Gary Latter guidebook description of this route is horrendous and leads to a dark place inside yourself. |
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| Dr Toph | 24 Apr, 2019 |
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βeta: Lots of tottering loose rock on north buttress, along top of slime wall above other routes. Take great care when scrambling off if anyone else is in the gully or on the cliff! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Lots of tottering loose rock on north buttress, along top of slime wall above other routes. Take great care when scrambling off if anyone else is in the gully or on the cliff! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Buachaille Etive Mor
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Tarka
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Tanera Beag)