UKC

110m, 3 pitches. No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists

Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , 4 Star Scottish rock

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User Date Notes
arose 7 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Two main pitches as per SMC guide. Pays to have climbed bludgers to know where you are on the Face
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Two main pitches as per SMC guide. Pays to have climbed bludgers to know where you are on the Face
masa-alpin 16 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The photo topo of the SMC selective (2005) is clearest. However, Latter's guide "Scottish Rock Vol.1 South" (2012, original) seems more accurate in description overall than it and definitive "Glencoe" (2001), in particular the pitch lengths. Note that the suggested P2 belay in Latter's is not recommended (the gear isn't good), and better climb further up for several metres (a block and peg on the shelf up and left of the ramp, as of 2019 summer). The last pitch is 4c as in Latter's; you can't reach the last couple of pitches in one big 45m pitch as described in the SMC selective (2005).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The photo topo of the SMC selective (2005) is clearest. However, Latter's guide "Scottish Rock Vol.1 South" (2012, original) seems more accurate in description overall than it and definitive "Glencoe" (2001), in particular the pitch lengths. Note that the suggested P2 belay in Latter's is not recommended (the gear isn't good), and better climb further up for several metres (a block and peg on the shelf up and left of the ramp, as of 2019 summer). The last pitch is 4c as in Latter's; you can't reach the last couple of pitches in one big 45m pitch as described in the SMC selective (2005).

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Buachaille Etive Mor

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 5
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest

Wet Dreams/Niagara

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Creag Dubh (Newtonmore))
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