UKC

75m, 3 pitches. In situ abseil point at the top and intermediate abseil point as of 28/05/12.

Ticklists

Dad's Scottish Rock Underliners

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User Date Notes
Seán Fortune 6 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: WARNING! Wouldn't recommend climbing it at the moment. We had a torso sized block pull off on the second pitch and hit the belay, necessitating a bail and trip to A&E for a few stitches. I'd imagine there's possibly more bits to come. We had to leave quite a bit of gear, so while it might look tempting to go and get, it's probably only worth it to ab in rather than risk climbing it. (side note, if anyone does get it, I would love at least some of it back...). First pitch was nothing special either, spaced gear and ok climbing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: WARNING! Wouldn't recommend climbing it at the moment. We had a torso sized block pull off on the second pitch and hit the belay, necessitating a bail and trip to A&E for a few stitches. I'd imagine there's possibly more bits to come. We had to leave quite a bit of gear, so while it might look tempting to go and get, it's probably only worth it to ab in rather than risk climbing it. (side note, if anyone does get it, I would love at least some of it back...). First pitch was nothing special either, spaced gear and ok climbing.
Osiris 27 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: P1,2+3. Felt generally serious and scary with little good gear, often only shallow and suspect placements with lots of loose rock. P3 was so badly protected it basically felt like a solo, so instead climbing blindly on I bailed off a skyhook and crossed over to Whortleberry Wall, which Ian finished off. E1 and E2 on Pabbay felt soft in comparison to this route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: P1,2+3. Felt generally serious and scary with little good gear, often only shallow and suspect placements with lots of loose rock. P3 was so badly protected it basically felt like a solo, so instead climbing blindly on I bailed off a skyhook and crossed over to Whortleberry Wall, which Ian finished off. E1 and E2 on Pabbay felt soft in comparison to this route.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Buachaille Etive Mor

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 17
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Secretaries' Super Direct

Grade: HVS ***
(Polldubh Crags, Glen Nevis)

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