Rockfax Description
135m. A difficult and distinctive climb with character and atmosphere. A route for the connoisseur of Scottish gullies. A spell of drought is desirable but not essential. Climb the first three pitches to belay in a cave underneath a huge chockstone completely blocking the gully. Pitch 4 (5a) Climb strenuously up the smooth and exposed left wall (crux) until it is possible to reach a high handhold above the slot between the chockstone and the wall. Belay well up the scree slope above. (Possible escape to the right at this point). Pitch 5 (4c) takes the narrow chimney with a jammed block then climbs a deceptive groove in the left corner. Pitch 6 (4c), The Bicycle Pitch, is climbed on small holds up the left wall (perhaps the crux if wet). Above Pitch 8 a huge crag arches the gully, which higher up bristles with splendid caves and overhangs. At the top of Pitch 8, a rib and shelf rise steeply against Slime Wall. Traverse left round the foot of the rib into grooves running parallel with the gully. Climb 45m of easier rock to a grass platform at the edge of the gully, above the caves of the Direct Finish. Finish by a narrow and holdless 3m chimney on the right, or by traversing left across slabs and up a 12m chimney and groove. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Hard Rock , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , MIA logbook must haves! , The Road to Shibboleth , Mountaineering in Scotland: in the footsteps of WH Murray , Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying , Type 2 Fun , Rab 'Pocket a Prize' Competition: Cal's 'Alpine Feel' Climbs , Lochaber Esoterica , Hard Rock 2020 , Scottish Hard Rock 2020 , The must dos very soon

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