Rockfax Description
150m. Despite the creation of many harder routes, this great classic maintains its prestige. The route is sustained, serious and intimidating with some complex route finding. Above and right from the parallel grooves of Bludger's and Lecher's, and above the foot of Raven's Gully, is a very prominent hanging corner taken by this route. Start 6m below and left of Raven's Gully.
1) 4a, 20m. Climb a series of right-trending, slabby grooves to a large flake beneath a black stained crack.
2) 5c, 25m. Climb the obvious crack for 6m, traverse left for 3m then go up and right with difficulty, poor peg, to enter the corner (often wet). This leads on improving holds to a small ledge.
3) 5a, 20m. Continue up the corner and its continuation, then make an exposed and poorly protected traverse up and left to belay below the Revelation flake-crack.
4) 5b, 25m. Follow the groove on the right past protection possibilities, (small wires, thread), until forced onto the wall and follow this to the small overhang. Turn the overhang on its left by means of a hanging groove and crack and continue to a belay.
5) 5a, 20m. Climb up and left to gain a shallow overhanging corner which is followed to a ledge on the right. The Original Finish (4b) climbs the wall and groove above.
6) 5c, 20m. Traverse right to a good spike. Step up and go right to enter a bottomless groove that leads to a ledge on the right in a fine position.
7) 5b, 20m. Traverse right to enter a crack springing up from the Great Cave, the huge recess overhanging Raven's Gully, and climb it to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Prestigous Scottish mountain classic with all that entails. Together with The True Finish this gives a monumental outing.

R. Smith, A .Fraser Jun/1958.

Ticklists

Hard Rock , Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Great Scottish E2s , Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Robin Smith Legacy , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , World Graded List , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Summer Trip 2014 , Ultimate E2 ticklist , UK Lonely Leads , The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland , BMG Application Rock (Unofficial) , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , Hard Rock 2020 , Greatest E2s in Europe (or thereabouts) , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2 , Must climb at crags , Scottish Four Star Multi Pitch Routes to E2 (and Old Man Of Hoy) , Scottish Hard Rock 2020 , 4 Star Scottish rock , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs **** , 100 Classic Climbs | Scotland Central & Southern Highlands , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , Scotland climbing , My rock ticklist. , Banfords Road Trip Ticklist

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