Rockfax Description
120m. A superb route, taking a direct line up the entire cliff. It takes the left-hand of the three prominent grooves in the wall to the right of Shibboleth. Start 6m below and left of Raven's Gully.
1) 4a, 20m. Climb a series of right-trending slabby grooves to a large flake beneath the black stained crack of Shibboleth. Belay below a prominent dark stained corner on the right.
2) 6a, 25m. Climb the corner above for 6m, then follow a little stepped overlap going left to enter an obvious groove (the slim hanging groove immediately right of Shibboleth). Negotiate the ‘slime factory' to enter the groove. At the top of this groove, move right into another groove (possibly wet). Climb the groove and its right edge (there is another slim groove to the right which is entered towards its top). Climb the mossy thin crack in the short wall above to a small ledge on the left. Although often wet, this pitch has good holds and gear; it is worth persevering (or sending your mate up!).
3) 5c, 25m. Climb up and left from two fingers of rock (forming a V) and climb a slim groove to a 3m tapering cracked groove. Climb the crack and instead of following the obvious line of stepped holds going up and rightwards, trend left and follow a shallow groove and rib which becomes parallel and close to Shibboleth pitch 4. This leads to the right side of Shibboleth's isolated overhang. From a juggy handrail, climb the tricky wall above and enter a small left-facing corner to reach a narrow ledge and belay on Apparition.
4) 5c, 25m. Step right and climb two faint, tapering cracks to a ledge. Go up and right to a sloping shelf leading to the right edge of this steep section of cliff, overlooking easier ground on the left wall of Raven's Gully. Climb up and left to a square-cut hold, then continue to a good side pull beneath a bulge. Move left and join Shibboleth at the traverse into the hanging groove. Belay on the ledge above as for Shibboleth.
5) 5c, 25m. Halfway along the belay ledge, climb a brown streak to gain an obvious stepped, right-trending crack. Climb this in a fine position to easier ground. Pumpy but well protected. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Right of Shibboleth.

Ticklists

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