130m, 4 pitches.
Start 20m right of North Buttress West route where the buttress changes angle above Slime wall.
1. Climb a groove on the far right side of the buttress before heading back left up a bay and up a short steep corner. 25m
2. Climb the obvious deep slot capped by a massive chockstone to a terrace (35m)
3. follow a ramp up right before heading left to a cracked boulder on the skyline. follow ramps past this and up a short groove to just right of North buttress west route (40m)
4. Climb the obvious left slanting ramp/groove above to the end of the difficulties. (30m)
Either follow North buttress to the top or abseil the line of North Buttress west route.
1. Climb a groove on the far right side of the buttress before heading back left up a bay and up a short steep corner. 25m
2. Climb the obvious deep slot capped by a massive chockstone to a terrace (35m)
3. follow a ramp up right before heading left to a cracked boulder on the skyline. follow ramps past this and up a short groove to just right of North buttress west route (40m)
4. Climb the obvious left slanting ramp/groove above to the end of the difficulties. (30m)
Either follow North buttress to the top or abseil the line of North Buttress west route.
Ali Rose, Luca Celano 29/Jan/2025.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Maoweee | 31 Jan |
Show βeta
βeta: By continuing up the snow slope after p4 for 40m leads to a large block belay (currently rigged for abseil) below a V-shaped chimney above. The chimney gives a good continuation final pitch at a similar grade before topping out. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: By continuing up the snow slope after p4 for 40m leads to a large block belay (currently rigged for abseil) below a V-shaped chimney above. The chimney gives a good continuation final pitch at a similar grade before topping out. |
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Route of Interest
Ordinary Route (Central Buttress), AKA Raeburn's Route
Grade: IV 4 ***
(Bidean nam Bian - Stob Coire nan Lochan)