100m, 3 pitches.
A fine route which takes the line of hanging chimneys to the right of Cerberus. Start as for Cerberus.
1) 25m Climb the first pitch of Cerberus to the “poor stance”, then move rightwards to below an obvious steep slot. Climb this, strenuous, to a peg runner, then move right in an excellent position onto the arête and then up to an obvious and comfortable cave belay.
2) 25m Climb the right side of the cave, pull back left into the superb icy chimney line (well protected) which is followed to the start of easier ground.
3) 50m Follow easier, but very pleasant ground to below the summit.
1) 25m Climb the first pitch of Cerberus to the “poor stance”, then move rightwards to below an obvious steep slot. Climb this, strenuous, to a peg runner, then move right in an excellent position onto the arête and then up to an obvious and comfortable cave belay.
2) 25m Climb the right side of the cave, pull back left into the superb icy chimney line (well protected) which is followed to the start of easier ground.
3) 50m Follow easier, but very pleasant ground to below the summit.
Malcolm Bass & Simon Yearsley 21/Feb/2005.
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Guidebooks for Buachaille Etive Mor - Stob Coire Altruim
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Route of Interest
Tholl Gate
Grade: VI 6 ***
(Fuar Tholl)