50m, 2 pitches.
End of the rainbow. E1 * (April 2017)
1. 30m 5b. A few metres right is a steep wall with good holds. Up this and onto easier ground. Move left into a shallow groove and crack system which leads up to an overhanging wall. Climb this initially on the right using small ledges (one doubtful block on left) and move back right and finish on jugs. Belay at the bollard.
2. 20m 5b Move right around the nose and traverse to the base of the corner. Climb the short overhanging gritstone-like crack to a mantleshelf. Finish easily up a slab. Large cam useful to protect the mantleshelf, but normal cams can be placed in the mid section of the crack.
1. 30m 5b. A few metres right is a steep wall with good holds. Up this and onto easier ground. Move left into a shallow groove and crack system which leads up to an overhanging wall. Climb this initially on the right using small ledges (one doubtful block on left) and move back right and finish on jugs. Belay at the bollard.
2. 20m 5b Move right around the nose and traverse to the base of the corner. Climb the short overhanging gritstone-like crack to a mantleshelf. Finish easily up a slab. Large cam useful to protect the mantleshelf, but normal cams can be placed in the mid section of the crack.
Keith Milne / Ian Milne / David Bird Apr/2017.
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Route of Interest
Black Custard
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Pass of Ballater)