6 pitches.
P1. Start at the exact same spot as Mediocracy (single bolt for belay protection). Go directly left to a stance above the hole - great pitch! 6b.
P2. Go up and cross Mediocracy at it's second stance, but do not stop there, instead take the right line up the arete to the large ledge. Use the stance on the right. 6b.
P3. Take the right line (Mediocracy is the left line). 5c+.
P4. Go up Mediocracy for 4 bolts, then move left on a traverse all the way till stance 4 of Rutsch Rach Rechts (12m above the roof). 3-star pitch! 6a+.
P5. Go straight up from this stance (Rutsch Rach Rechts is the left line 6b - give it a try!) to the stance above on the ledge. 5b+.
P6. Take the right line to the summit. 5c.
P2. Go up and cross Mediocracy at it's second stance, but do not stop there, instead take the right line up the arete to the large ledge. Use the stance on the right. 6b.
P3. Take the right line (Mediocracy is the left line). 5c+.
P4. Go up Mediocracy for 4 bolts, then move left on a traverse all the way till stance 4 of Rutsch Rach Rechts (12m above the roof). 3-star pitch! 6a+.
P5. Go straight up from this stance (Rutsch Rach Rechts is the left line 6b - give it a try!) to the stance above on the ledge. 5b+.
P6. Take the right line to the summit. 5c.
A. Orr & L. Bartoszevicz Jul/2017.
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Route of Interest
Classic Route
Grade: 6b ***
(Batu Caves)