Climbs 103
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 120m a.s.l
Faces NE
brixton climber in south sandstone. bulls hollow © brixton climber
Crag features
Up to 8m in height, soft under foot in places at the base and some fragile holds. Secluded and shaded, and hence slower to come into condition, but a change from the bigger places if you're in the area.
The Sandstone Volunteers Group cleared the crag in 2003 and it is now much more open.
Many climbs have bolts above but you will need a second static rope to ensure your belay karabiner extends over the edge of the crag to avoid damage from moving ropes. A carpet sample is crucial to clean your feet before climbing & thereby avoid further damage to the rock.
Approach notes
NO LEADING - soloing or toproping only, and if the latter then extend the belay over the crag edge - it saves your rope and the rock.
From Tunbridge Wells take the A264 towards E. Grinstead along the N side of Tun Wells common. 300m after the Spa Hotel turn R into Rusthall Road and after 150m, R again into Harmony Street (signpost Toad Rock). The road bends right and then left at a junction with Rusthall Park. The crag is in the wood gained by following the track heading south east from this junction for 100m.
Parking available on the road by Toad Rock further down Harmony Street. Please do not park in Rusthall Park.
Restricted Access
There are belay-bolts in above most of the popular climbs. For routes not equiped with bolts, climbers should use a second rope to belay on the trees a short distance back from the edge. The crag is owned by the Tunbridge Wells Commons Conservators and the the rocks are part of the Rusthall Common geological SSSI due to their rock formation and natural erosion features. Local BMC volunteers contributed a significant amount of work on the vegetation clearance project to address overgrown areas. This was very successful and the results can be seen at - http://www.sandstonevolunteers.nildram.co.uk/index.html
| There are various wasps nests this season, be warned! alan1234 - 06/Jul/11 |
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| lovely day on the 14th april.The start are alwayse slimy, that make the place so untertaining.
i love it. brixton climber - 15/May/07 |
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| Short way from tunbridge wells station, good for perfecting sandstone technique, although a bit slimy early in the season/ easy to help beginnners. SLewis - 20/Apr/06 |
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| May 2005 - Coming nicely into condition. Many repeats of routes not climbed for years! Graham Ad - 12/May/05 |
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| The crag has been cleaned and is now very climbable..
More traffic is needed to remove the last of the slime
Volunteers?
A>croft - 10/Jun/04 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers emmaharrington and daimon