At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving. Please proceed with caution though.
Altitude 411m a.s.l
Ben Bransby making the second ground-up ascent (5th overall ascent) of The Promise (E7) at Burbage North © Alan James
Burbage North is a popular spot because its great accessibility makes it a regular haunt of many climbers. Unlike its darker sister, Burbage South, it has a reputation for friendly routes in a picturesque setting. Fine summer evenings will see the place swarming with locals grabbing a quick route or two before the sun goes down. Its accessibility and great supply of short and easy routes means that it is also popular with Outdoor Centres, although they tend to stick to the initial sections; a three minute extension to your approach walk will always reduce any crowds. Burbage North doesn't have any mega-classic climbs, though there is hardly a poor route on the whole cliff. The rock is the same quality as on the other edges, but overall the crag is on a smaller scale. Often you will only have time to place a couple of runners before topping out, which is why the place is so popular with boulderers and soloists.
Burbage Bridge, at the north end of Burbage Valley, has two parking areas which usually have enough spaces except on the busiest of weekends when you may struggle to find a spot. An alternative is to park up at Higgar Tor and walk back (10 mins).
From Burbage Bridge, there are three paths: the main one (the Green Drive) goes down the valley, a small path breaks left from this and runs along the base of the cliff. There is also the third option, a crag-top path, which is useful for reaching the more distant areas.
No access problems. The area is part of the Eastern Edges SSSI designated for its assemblage of breeding birds - please make sure dogs are under control to protect birds and sheep: the grazier has reported losses.
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Burbage, Stanage and Bamford and this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
|The footholds above the bulge on Long Tall Sally are getting a bit polished|
Impact John - 24/May/04
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