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Climbs 459
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 411m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Ben Bransby making the second ground-up ascent (5th overall ascent) of The Promise (E7) at Burbage North © Alan James

Crag features

Burbage North is a popular spot because its great accessibility makes it a regular haunt of many climbers. Unlike its darker sister, Burbage South, it has a reputation for friendly routes in a picturesque setting. Fine summer evenings will see the place swarming with locals grabbing a quick route or two before the sun goes down. Its accessibility and great supply of short and easy routes means that it is also popular with Outdoor Centres, although they tend to stick to the initial sections; a three minute extension to your approach walk will always reduce any crowds. Burbage North doesn't have any mega-classic climbs, though there is hardly a poor route on the whole cliff. The rock is the same quality as on the other edges, but overall the crag is on a smaller scale. Often you will only have time to place a couple of runners before topping out, which is why the place is so popular with boulderers and soloists.

Approach notes

Burbage Bridge, at the north end of Burbage Valley, has two parking areas which usually have enough spaces except on the busiest of weekends when you may struggle to find a spot. An alternative is to park up at Higgar Tor and walk back (10 mins).

From Burbage Bridge, there are three paths: the main one (the Green Drive) goes down the valley, a small path breaks left from this and runs along the base of the cliff. There is also the third option, a crag-top path, which is useful for reaching the more distant areas.

Restricted Access

No access problems. The area is part of the Eastern Edges SSSI designated for its assemblage of breeding birds - please make sure dogs are under control to protect birds and sheep: the grazier has reported losses.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Burbage, Stanage and Bamford and  this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate. 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
The footholds above the bulge on Long Tall Sally are getting a bit polished
Impact John - 24/May/04
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Climbs at this crag

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Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Nick1812P