UKC

Climbs 14
Rocktype Iron Rock
Altitude 175m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Area 1 - Left © Steven Delaney

Crag features

There is no real climbing in Warwickshire, and Burton Dassett isn't the solution. But if you're looking for somewhere to practice on real rock (or are a small child) without driving hundreds of miles, then there is an interesting hour or so to be had here.

It's Ironstone and used to be a quarry. It can be green and loose, and when wet it's lethal. And it never gets much over 2 meters tall. So spectacular it is not, but a hand full of interesting traverses, some short boulder problems from sit start, and a workable crimpy face accompanying a scrappy crack. top outs are onto grass so can be slippy and awkward, take some friends as the landings are ankle twisters or rib bruising if you don't place a mat with a little care.

Split into 2 areas, the 2-3m wall behind the toilet block, and a boulder area past the horseshoe picnic area to the east of the toilet and parking. 

Bring a picnic (and kite) to avoid disappointment, bring the kids too they'll love the sheep. 

Approach notes

Turn off the M40, head for the beacon and park.

 

This is a country park which is closed to vehicles overnight, but has pay and display parking through the day.

If approaching from the Banbury Road entrance, the rocks are just behind the little hut with the pay and display machine. They are in a little dip (which keeps you sheltered from the wind) and there are some picnic tables there.

Love this - Burton Dassett Hills offers very little really - but as the first post comments there's a bit to muck about on. The best and most challenging climbing is on the 'Pork Pie' beacon. It used to be a shelter for sheep, has been bricked in, but a few good moves and you're on the top. (If the ranger catches you, you're for the chop!)
Jeremy Wilton - 09/May/14
I feel the description here is a LITTLE generous. There are a couple of patches of rock that might just scrape the 1m high mark. This photo (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=177563) implies there is a small boulder on the LHS. There isn't, this rock is about knee high. Must have been a very funny lens to take that shot. Lovely country park for a wander, but you'd have a better training session trying to climb wooden ticket booth or table traverse the picnic bench!
67hours - 28/Jul/12
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