At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving. Please proceed with caution though.
Altitude 450m a.s.l
Long way above the last bolt © mr mills
Five minutes' walk (if that) from the road. Many pleasant slab routes at E2-E4, with sparse bolts (4 bolts in 25m). Also some worrying lower-grade trad routes: rock and finishes may be loose or fragile.
Mind the fence after parking on the roundabout. Looks like a recent rock fall has happened to the left of fools gold October 6th 2019
Please avoid damaging fences - use the stiles provided. Historically there were access problems here, partially as a result of liability concerns and also due to damage to fences, but these appear to be resolved at this time.
A report of a significant rockfall in May 2020 suggests the routes Guillotine and Wusty Woof. may have been affected..
A large block has fallen off the route Septugenarian in early 2017 making this route very unstable and dangerous - further rock-fall may occur here!
|The first bolt on Septuagenarian is now missing but you can use a small cam just above this if required.|
jeff - 19/May/13
|Had a nervous lower-off after seconding Septuagenarian this weekend. Had heard the right-hand lower-off bolt was quite loose, but the left-hand one also wobbled a millimetre or so...|
dgb - 14/May/12
|Yes this is definitely Biggles Flies Undone to which you refer. It even says in the slate guide that it's been claimed many times, or something to that effect. Besides, there's no way in hell that it's 6a!!! As well as the good peg (not bolt) 1/3rd of the way up, there's plenty of other gear to make this a perfectly safe E1 5b at most.|
Tom Last - 26/Feb/10
overhang still has alot of loose rock on it and some sharp bits ... o, and my mates blood!!! the first bolt just past this is loose, didnt have a wrench to fix it so be aware|
remus - 12/Jan/10
|This crag is Blast Shelter crag, which is described in the guide.
The route with the peg (not bolt) is Biggles Flies Undone (E1 5b), and is listed on the Bus Stop Quarry page.|
NickD - 03/Nov/08
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