Restricted Access
Please avoid damaging fences - use the stiles provided. Historically there were access problems here, partially as a result of liability concerns and also due to damage to fences, but these appear to be resolved at this time.
There has been significant rock fall across this area over the past few years, climbers should check the route and be aware of more collapsing rock. Routes that have been affected are Septuagenarian, Guillotine, Wusty Wolf and possibly the start of Fool’s Gold.
The overhanging arete of the butterfly slab ( Right of nose bleed section) from a sit start. Left hand at a small scoop on the arete. Right hand good crimp on the steep wall level with it. Low left foot on the long foothold on the slabby side. Slap up the arete to jugs. Rock over if you have a spotter! Excellent problem.
Phil Targett 25/Mar/2016.
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Route of Interest
Pyroclastic fantastic
Grade: f7A ***
(Rhobell Fawr)