UKC Logbook - 'Idris Corner'

30m. The obvious open book corner on the lower tier

Ticklists

Feedback Always Hide βeta

User	Date		Notes
finnmmac	23 Aug	Show βeta βeta: Access is tricky, a 30m steep, vegetated ramp leads to the base of the corner. Belay can be made at the base of the roof, be weary of rock quality here. I recommend at least 5 big blue cams, ideally 6, one big grey for the top and a rock 7 for the crux. There is no gear outside of the fist crack. Climb up a series of increasingly small ledges to a blank looking section, layback up this to a rail on the left hand wall, remember to look right too! Climb technically up the tightening corner to reach a prominent undercling, get above this and seek features in the right hand wall. Make strenuous moves to gain the features of a long chockstone. (nut) rest on fingerlocks before pushing on to the narrow jam-centric crux.
Show beta βeta: Access is tricky, a 30m steep, vegetated ramp leads to the base of the corner. Belay can be made at the base of the roof, be weary of rock quality here. I recommend at least 5 big blue cams, ideally 6, one big grey for the top and a rock 7 for the crux. There is no gear outside of the fist crack. Climb up a series of increasingly small ledges to a blank looking section, layback up this to a rail on the left hand wall, remember to look right too! Climb technically up the tightening corner to reach a prominent undercling, get above this and seek features in the right hand wall. Make strenuous moves to gain the features of a long chockstone. (nut) rest on fingerlocks before pushing on to the narrow jam-centric crux.