UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Cademan Rocks for climbing has not been formalised at the current time and could be withdrawn in future if issues continue. At all times practice a minimal impact approach and leave the area in a better condition than you found it. It is important that visiting climbers respect the area, keep a low profile, behave well and cultivate a positive image to other users, local residents and landowners alike. 

  • Parking is very limited and poor parking damages verges and obstructs traffic – both of which give climbers a bad name with locals. Follow the detailed parking guidance in the ‘Parking and Approach’ section below and don’t be part of the problem.
  • If there is nowhere to park without contributing to these issues, please don’t squeeze in regardless – help to preserve long term access and go elsewhere or come back another day.  
  • Litter has noticeably increased in the woods in recent times which is a very obvious negative impact of increased visitor numbers. Do your bit to look after the woods and as well as taking your own litter home with you, pick up other litter you see. The BMC Hills 2 Oceans campaign is providing free litter pickers and bags to help climbers clear up their local crags – click here to get yours.
  • Do not climb over dry stone walls to access any boulders – it will damage the wall and annoy landowners. Take a longer approach if necessary to avoid this.
  • Overnight camping at the rocks or nearby in vehicles is very noticeable and likely to cause friction with local residents and landowners so please don’t do it.
Use the blocky pinch for your left hand and a low edge for the right. Make a long move to a slopey edge then move left to gain, and finish up, the rising flake line.

Ticklists

Leicestershire Bouldering (6A-6C+) , Cademan Class , Climbs I did that Rory couldn't before he got good, and that he hasn't tried since

Feedback

User Date Notes
Stuart Russell 6 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The ground has clearly dropped since the photo was taken. The low sloping footblock isn't uncovered in the topo and clearly isn't allowed at 6A+. The right footblock is less clear but it doesn't feel 6a+ if this is used.
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βeta: The ground has clearly dropped since the photo was taken. The low sloping footblock isn't uncovered in the topo and clearly isn't allowed at 6A+. The right footblock is less clear but it doesn't feel 6a+ if this is used.
Nathan Williams 11 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Depends on own personal strengths and weaknesses however if you do as I did and miss read the route and use the crimp in front of you as the first left hand hold instead of the pinch, I would say it makes the climb a high 6a+/6b. I found the pinch start way easier than the crimp I did.
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βeta: Depends on own personal strengths and weaknesses however if you do as I did and miss read the route and use the crimp in front of you as the first left hand hold instead of the pinch, I would say it makes the climb a high 6a+/6b. I found the pinch start way easier than the crimp I did.
Trevclimbs 9 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome line, suits the smaller climber. Tricky feet.
βeta?
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βeta: Awesome line, suits the smaller climber. Tricky feet.
Fraser kid 28 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Solid. Maybe didn’t suit being tall
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βeta: Solid. Maybe didn’t suit being tall

Logged Ascents

159 users have logged this
18 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High f6B
Mid f6B
Low f6B
High f6A+
Mid f6A+
Low f6A+
High f6A
Mid f6A
Low f6A
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Soloed
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Starship Trooper

Grade: f6A+ ***
(Beacon Hill)

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