UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Cademan Rocks for climbing has not been formalised at the current time and could be withdrawn in future if issues continue. At all times practice a minimal impact approach and leave the area in a better condition than you found it. It is important that visiting climbers respect the area, keep a low profile, behave well and cultivate a positive image to other users, local residents and landowners alike. 

  • Parking is very limited and poor parking damages verges and obstructs traffic – both of which give climbers a bad name with locals. Follow the detailed parking guidance in the ‘Parking and Approach’ section below and don’t be part of the problem.
  • If there is nowhere to park without contributing to these issues, please don’t squeeze in regardless – help to preserve long term access and go elsewhere or come back another day.  
  • Litter has noticeably increased in the woods in recent times which is a very obvious negative impact of increased visitor numbers. Do your bit to look after the woods and as well as taking your own litter home with you, pick up other litter you see. The BMC Hills 2 Oceans campaign is providing free litter pickers and bags to help climbers clear up their local crags – click here to get yours.
  • Do not climb over dry stone walls to access any boulders – it will damage the wall and annoy landowners. Take a longer approach if necessary to avoid this.
  • Overnight camping at the rocks or nearby in vehicles is very noticeable and likely to cause friction with local residents and landowners so please don’t do it.
From sitting on the lowest holds on the right side of the wall climb left wards to finish up Overhanging ArĂȘte.

Please do not chalk footholds. Chalking up feet makes friction *worse* not better and causes footholds to become polished at a faster rate than they would do otherwise.

Ticklists

Leicestershire Bouldering (7A-7B) , Cademan Class , LSMC to do , Scott and Seery's rampage of 7s

Feedback

User Date Notes
shitshirtclimbing 12 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Lots of loose pebbles in some of the less useful holds.
Show beta
βeta: Lots of loose pebbles in some of the less useful holds.
fingerjugger 17 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: MASSIVE, MASSIVE tickmarks on the rock yesterday, about an inch thick by 6 inches, some people should have a word with themselves.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: MASSIVE, MASSIVE tickmarks on the rock yesterday, about an inch thick by 6 inches, some people should have a word with themselves.
harrison 12 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Why are the footholds on this block chalked...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Why are the footholds on this block chalked...
Alexmartin 15 Dec, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Wet wet wet
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wet wet wet
Punter_Pro 14 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Great problem, took a few tries to work out the beta, felt good once figured out. https://www.instagram.com/p/CC0id_2DDuf/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great problem, took a few tries to work out the beta, felt good once figured out. https://www.instagram.com/p/CC0id_2DDuf/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
clare_bear 18 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Nice moves, gopping conditions. Topped out in the rain.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice moves, gopping conditions. Topped out in the rain.
mwillmott 26 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: My instagram post of different beta than the heel hook if anyone wants to see https://www.instagram.com/p/CAVAZI5jsM5/?igshid=qkjhevki5ueq
Show beta
βeta: My instagram post of different beta than the heel hook if anyone wants to see https://www.instagram.com/p/CAVAZI5jsM5/?igshid=qkjhevki5ueq
ajhclimbing 13 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Cool heel move, found some alternate beta which made it a bit easier than the other ways I've seen. https://www.instagram.com/p/B2Z2rUdD2Hc/
Show beta
βeta: Cool heel move, found some alternate beta which made it a bit easier than the other ways I've seen. https://www.instagram.com/p/B2Z2rUdD2Hc/

Logged Ascents

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48 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
High f6C
Mid f6C
Low f6C
High f6B+
Mid f6B+
Low f6B+
Votes cast 41
Votes cast 34
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The ArĂȘte

Grade: f7A ***
(Windmill Hill)

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