UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Cademan Rocks for climbing has not been formalised at the current time and could be withdrawn in future if issues continue. At all times practice a minimal impact approach and leave the area in a better condition than you found it. It is important that visiting climbers respect the area, keep a low profile, behave well and cultivate a positive image to other users, local residents and landowners alike. 

  • Parking is very limited and poor parking damages verges and obstructs traffic – both of which give climbers a bad name with locals. Follow the detailed parking guidance in the ‘Parking and Approach’ section below and don’t be part of the problem.
  • If there is nowhere to park without contributing to these issues, please don’t squeeze in regardless – help to preserve long term access and go elsewhere or come back another day.  
  • Litter has noticeably increased in the woods in recent times which is a very obvious negative impact of increased visitor numbers. Do your bit to look after the woods and as well as taking your own litter home with you, pick up other litter you see. The BMC Hills 2 Oceans campaign is providing free litter pickers and bags to help climbers clear up their local crags – click here to get yours.
  • Do not climb over dry stone walls to access any boulders – it will damage the wall and annoy landowners. Take a longer approach if necessary to avoid this.
  • Overnight camping at the rocks or nearby in vehicles is very noticeable and likely to cause friction with local residents and landowners so please don’t do it.
Sit start on the left arete. Do the first move of Overhanging Arete, then reverse Crossdresser, staying on the lower holds until you reach the right arete, before finishing up Adams Family Values.

Thomas Hirons 22/Jun/2018.

Ticklists

Leicestershire Bouldering (7A-7B) , Cademan Class

Feedback

User Date Notes
edmillsdilkes 5 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Bit eliminate but good
Show beta
βeta: Bit eliminate but good

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High f7B+
Mid f7B+
Low f7B+
High f7B
Mid f7B
Low f7B
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dark Magic

Grade: f7B ***
(Forest Rock)

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