UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Cademan Rocks for climbing has not been formalised at the current time and could be withdrawn in future if issues continue. At all times practice a minimal impact approach and leave the area in a better condition than you found it. It is important that visiting climbers respect the area, keep a low profile, behave well and cultivate a positive image to other users, local residents and landowners alike. 

  • Parking is very limited and poor parking damages verges and obstructs traffic – both of which give climbers a bad name with locals. Follow the detailed parking guidance in the ‘Parking and Approach’ section below and don’t be part of the problem.
  • If there is nowhere to park without contributing to these issues, please don’t squeeze in regardless – help to preserve long term access and go elsewhere or come back another day.  
  • Litter has noticeably increased in the woods in recent times which is a very obvious negative impact of increased visitor numbers. Do your bit to look after the woods and as well as taking your own litter home with you, pick up other litter you see. The BMC Hills 2 Oceans campaign is providing free litter pickers and bags to help climbers clear up their local crags – click here to get yours.
  • Do not climb over dry stone walls to access any boulders – it will damage the wall and annoy landowners. Take a longer approach if necessary to avoid this.
  • Overnight camping at the rocks or nearby in vehicles is very noticeable and likely to cause friction with local residents and landowners so please don’t do it.
A surprisingly good, low level traverse linking the ramp into easy cracks. Staying beneath the bulge, employ knee bars and toe hooks to work your way across.

Ticklists

Leicestershire Bouldering (7A-7B)

Feedback

User Date Notes
Fraser kid 28 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Think I did this correctly. I used small crimps just under the ledge, which was easier for the tall, as it says in the description, so I think I did it right, otherwise it would just be the undercuts which wouldn’t be easy for the tall!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Think I did this correctly. I used small crimps just under the ledge, which was easier for the tall, as it says in the description, so I think I did it right, otherwise it would just be the undercuts which wouldn’t be easy for the tall!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
High f6C
Mid f6C
Low f6C
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Soloed
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Ground Up
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Arête

Grade: f7A ***
(Windmill Hill)

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