UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Cademan Rocks for climbing has not been formalised at the current time and could be withdrawn in future if issues continue. At all times practice a minimal impact approach and leave the area in a better condition than you found it. It is important that visiting climbers respect the area, keep a low profile, behave well and cultivate a positive image to other users, local residents and landowners alike. 

  • Parking is very limited and poor parking damages verges and obstructs traffic – both of which give climbers a bad name with locals. Follow the detailed parking guidance in the ‘Parking and Approach’ section below and don’t be part of the problem.
  • If there is nowhere to park without contributing to these issues, please don’t squeeze in regardless – help to preserve long term access and go elsewhere or come back another day.  
  • Litter has noticeably increased in the woods in recent times which is a very obvious negative impact of increased visitor numbers. Do your bit to look after the woods and as well as taking your own litter home with you, pick up other litter you see. The BMC Hills 2 Oceans campaign is providing free litter pickers and bags to help climbers clear up their local crags – click here to get yours.
  • Do not climb over dry stone walls to access any boulders – it will damage the wall and annoy landowners. Take a longer approach if necessary to avoid this.
  • Overnight camping at the rocks or nearby in vehicles is very noticeable and likely to cause friction with local residents and landowners so please don’t do it.
Start standing low beneath the obvious front facing prow. Climb this front on using both arĂȘtes. Finish over the top, no feet on boulders below the main block.

Feedback

User Date Notes
MelvinWaggg 25 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Soft 7c when jumping off the ground to the starting foot hold, fully eliminating other blocks (as in the FA and stated in the description)
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βeta: Soft 7c when jumping off the ground to the starting foot hold, fully eliminating other blocks (as in the FA and stated in the description)
ajhclimbing 2 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: First 7c (might be soft as it went suspiciously quick)
βeta?
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βeta: First 7c (might be soft as it went suspiciously quick)
ajhclimbing 2 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: First 7c cheers Orin for the beta :)
Show beta
βeta: First 7c cheers Orin for the beta :)

Logged Ascents

19 users have logged this
9 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High f8A
Mid f8A
Low f8A
High f7C+
Mid f7C+
Low f7C+
High f7C
Mid f7C
Low f7C
High f7B+
Mid f7B+
Low f7B+
High f7B
Mid f7B
Low f7B
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Enchanted

Grade: f7C ***
(Forest Rock)

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