UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Cademan Rocks for climbing has not been formalised at the current time and could be withdrawn in future if issues continue. At all times practice a minimal impact approach and leave the area in a better condition than you found it. It is important that visiting climbers respect the area, keep a low profile, behave well and cultivate a positive image to other users, local residents and landowners alike. 

  • Parking is very limited and poor parking damages verges and obstructs traffic – both of which give climbers a bad name with locals. Follow the detailed parking guidance in the ‘Parking and Approach’ section below and don’t be part of the problem.
  • If there is nowhere to park without contributing to these issues, please don’t squeeze in regardless – help to preserve long term access and go elsewhere or come back another day.  
  • Litter has noticeably increased in the woods in recent times which is a very obvious negative impact of increased visitor numbers. Do your bit to look after the woods and as well as taking your own litter home with you, pick up other litter you see. The BMC Hills 2 Oceans campaign is providing free litter pickers and bags to help climbers clear up their local crags – click here to get yours.
  • Do not climb over dry stone walls to access any boulders – it will damage the wall and annoy landowners. Take a longer approach if necessary to avoid this.
  • Overnight camping at the rocks or nearby in vehicles is very noticeable and likely to cause friction with local residents and landowners so please don’t do it.
Climb direct between the two vague arĂȘtes from a sit-start.

Ticklists

Cademan 4+ To 5+

Feedback

User Date Notes
WillBullock 17 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Did again, using smears on the face for feet and avoiding anything that could be considered a footblock. Made it actually feel like an F5. Avoid the two big footblocks!
Show beta
βeta: Did again, using smears on the face for feet and avoiding anything that could be considered a footblock. Made it actually feel like an F5. Avoid the two big footblocks!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High f5+
Mid f5+
Low f5+
High f5
Mid f5
Low f5
High f4+
Mid f4+
Low f4+
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Clint's Left Hand

Grade: f5 ***
(Morley Quarry)

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