UKC

Climbs 50
Rocktype Gritstone

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Cadshaw Rocks © Neil Conway

Crag features

Routes up to about 35ft, mainly D-HS. A few worthwhile climbs VS-E3, including the classic Druids Face, E2 5b. Good for beginners, hence popular with groups. "Worth a visit", and generally well-protected.

Approach notes

Think the original directions (below) are a bit out of date or slightly wrong (they are possibly an amalgamation of two sets of directions)!

More correctly is: Park near to the junction of the B6391 and the A666. There is a layby for six or so cars just near the junction on the B6391. There is also space for three or so cars on the West side of the A666 a few metres north of the junction. This second parking space is almost directly opposite the footpath to the crag, which is signposted to Edgworth. This is a gravel path through the trees. Stay to the left and follow it around the hill. After a few minutes you get to the first little quarry. Keep on going round and you will see the crag before you over the stream.

(Directions from 2000 if not before - Take the A666 N from Bolton, past Delph reservoir on the L; the road then tends R. After about 1mi are the houses of Cadshaw, turn R and park in a few yards at a footpath signposted Egerton.
Walk around the hill: the Rocks are a few minutes' walk.)

Update this Crag
Last updated on 17/Nov/2023

No Access Issues

The crag is owned by United Utilities who take a positive attitude to climbing. The rock is a bit polished and can be greeen after rain but dries out quickly.

Sadly (and unbelieveably!) mindless dry tooling (never acceptable on established trad routes) by unknown climbers has damaged some of the flakes on the classic routes.

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Last update: 15/07/2022  

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great place lots of easy climbs to practice placing gear on.went today to do our first outdoor lead climbs.
Derek.cttn - 08/Sep/13
Pretty polished and eaten alive by midges too.
goose299 - 04/Jun/12
Great day on the crag. Great for first timer's. holds a bit polished though.
Ben Farnsworth - 30/Oct/11
Good crag in that access is easy from the main A666, that there is plentiful top protection and the finishes are on the whole safe and not mud/grass/nettles. It catches the sun all day too which makes it pleasant. Access to the base of the crag is good - you can walk in safety and thete's room to dump gear and chill out. The downside for me is thta many of the holds are badly polished now, and it.s not just a build up of grease and chalk, the rock is worn smooth to the point there is very little friction. Although I'm not a very experienced climber, some of the climbs felt tough for their grade because of frictionless holds. Some one braver than I might suggest some regrading. However - a low pleasant crag with plenty of stuff for beginners so give it a go.
Mungo Shuntobox - 31/Jul/11
Wasn't impressed on my first visit, very polished! Wouldn't recommend even for first time leaders, best suited to top roping.
joe.91 - 20/Apr/11
Did blue lights the other night and as I pulled through the overhang on the right hand side, one of the holds moved and creaked. There is also signs of lots of broken and cracked rock after the winter. Just be careful folks. Si
Simon Holden (LCandCC) - 01/Apr/11
Had a great day here today, recommended if you are in the area.
Paul748 - 26/Aug/07
Natural grit near Bolton! Much nicer than wilton(s) if you are leading lower grades. Good number of routes, belay stakes, clean top outs and a nice stone path to reduce erosion.
dread-i - 01/Aug/07
ignore my previous comments on this crag, it's cracking. went there last night and had a great evening climbing! (and it wasn't raining this time!!)
rginns - 12/Jul/07
good for beginners, an first time leaders, really nice sunset in the summer at th top afetr just doing a lead!
Jess - 18/Nov/06
oh, and don't park where the description suggests unless you want to get shouted at by an angry farmer!! spaces towards cadshaw houses.
rginns - 19/Jun/06
very green at the moment. rock is generally poor quality and very polished! ok for specific climbs or toproping. Otherwise not worth going, esp. in the wet!
rginns - 19/Jun/06
Jacket found 1st of May bank holiday weekend after downpour- please contact us if its yours - Globeturner@hotmail.com
Andrew Webster - 08/Jul/05
The footbridge across the stream that gives access to the crag was missing when I last went there (6 May).
Cath Sullivan - 16/May/05
Also known as Cadshaw Castle Rocks and Fairy Buttery/Fairy Battery.
Nick Smith - UKC - 01/Dec/04
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