UKC

Climbs 97
Rocktype Greywacke
Altitude 24m a.s.l
Faces W

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Fiend at Cae Du. © Fiend

Crag features

The new Snowdonia South Bouldering guide is in preparation and should be ready Spring 2021. Cae Du is of course included with 100 boulder problems named and graded Font style with excellent photo topos and action shots . The guide details many new areas in south Snowdonia including the LLwyngwril bouldering zones and the hillside above Llwyngwril where Llwyngwril locals have been busy .Any one who would like to see their action shots in the guide please mail to midwalesclimbing@btinternet.com.

Cae Du is an excellent sundrenched sea cliff bouldering venue tucked away in south Meirionnydd about 90 minutes drive from Llanberis. It is located below the farm and camping site of Cae Du on the A493. It's a very quiet area that is only occasionally used by local outdoor groups.

This is a great place to hone your technique and develop power as slopey rock and directional holds abound. If you are just starting out or looking for a chilled day, don't let this put you off since the area excels in the friendly range of V0- to V3. Also, the beach setting creates a relaxed and fun atmosphere.

The crags are tidal and the rock is washed clean daily however, the pebbles under the problems are sifted and rearranged by the tides to create new challenges or occasionally make some problems easier. The grades given therefore are only approximate.

For a topo for  2017   see here: http://www.midwalesclimbing.com

Approach notes

A few miles north of Tywyn in the village of Rhoslefain turn off at the Cae Du farm corner . Coming from the north it is just south of Llwyngwril village and is clearly visible from the road as you apprach Cae Du corner .From Aberystwyth allow 1 hour in a car ,from Dolgellau allow 25 minutes.
 

The campsite  and farm owners only allow climbers who are camping . They are happy for you to stay one night and climb all the next day if you then pay £5 for the parking. NO DAY TRIPPERS allowed.

Alternative approach; from Tonfannau train station just to the south you can walk across the fields heading north then drop down onto the pebble beach and walk along to Cae Du Bouldering . This avoids the farm and the campsite and is 25 minutes pleasant beach walk

Accessible 5 hours either side of low tide.
 

park at Tonfannau train station ( or if on the train pleae note this is a request stop only ) , walk down to the shore and stroll along the 1 km to the boulders ! And its a lovely walk .

There now appears to be access issues. I visited this week and attempted to access via the campsite but was turned away by a very unfriendly owner who refused to take any payment for parking and insisted I leave immediately.
PhilJames - 08/Sep/23
Parking is now 2
ceturnock - 18/Apr/15
there are several places called cae du but once you add the word "tywyn " or "bouldering " to your search in Google it brings you to the correct place
tat - 27/Sep/12
Are you sure the location for this crag is correct? because when you google "Cae Du", it finds a place in north wales nowhere near where this is marked?
Danyc0 - 27/Sep/12
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