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60m. Up the left side of the rightmost of the three main triangular buttresses, following the diagonal gully line towards the obvious cleft with a distinctive rock spike above. Reach a shoulder on ridge before it narrows, where can take left fork variant over into central cleugh (I). Instead, at the shoulder take the right fork and enter gully proper, over smallish step. Pass below earlier seen rock spike on ridge above and continue to ice step which forms at the top of the gully (crux). Possibly able to turn on left. Very loose stone if not frozen. After this easy ground on snow field with small last step leading directly to cairn at top.

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