UKC

160m. A thin ice line up the left side of the depression between St. Bernard’s Ridge and Summit Ridge. Thicker ice would drop the grade. Start well right of St. Bernard’s Ridge near the rocks of Summit Ridge. Move left along a ledge to climb a tricky crack which leads to the ice line. Climb thin ice to a big ledge on the left (30m). Continue up the ice line over bulges to a slab bounded on the left by a right-facing corner. Go up this, then pull out left on to a ramp. Go up this and over a steep recess to easier ground (45m). Follow the easier depression to a headwall (60m). Climb a narrow chimney on its left side to an easier finish to the summit of Creag an Leth-choin (25m).

Sandy Allan, Andy Nisbet, Brian Davison. 19/Jan/2015.

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Ultimate Scottish VII’s

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Route of Interest
The Magic Crack

Grade: VII 7 ***
(Cairn Gorm - Stob Coire an t-Sneachda)

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