UKC

365m, 7 pitches. A long icy adventure up the face on the highest part of the crag, best done when continuous ice leads through the lower overlaps. Start mid-way between Central and Diamond Gullies, 60m below a huge block and a two-tiered icefall.
1) Climb a rope-stretching pitch of iced slabs and small steps to a rock belay in the huge block (60m+) 2) Swing up left onto a steep ice pillar (5) and climb it into a groove behind the huge block. Escape the groove to belay on ice beneath the next overlap (20m). This pitch could be outflanked on the right. 3) Climb an ice groove to beneath the overlap, break out right and climb easier angled ice trending left to a rock belay (60m) 4) Move back out right and climb easy snow before trending left to a block belay near the base of Reindeer Ridge (60m) 5) Traverse back right until beneath a groove with a steep ice bulge, move up this into a bay and a block belay on the right below St Bernard's Ridge (55m) 6) Climb the big icy groove above (Have an Ice Day) to exit out right with difficulty onto easier ground (50m) 7) Climb easier snow and rock steps to the top (60m+)

David Riley, Andrew Harrison 25/Feb/2022.

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Grade: IV 6 ***
(Cairn Gorm - Stob Coire an t-Sneachda)

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