UKC

70m, 2 pitches. No description has been contributed for this climb.

FA. S. Simpson, S. Richardson 14/Nov/2010.

Ticklists

Chasing the Ephemeral , Winter 2018/19 , III and IV Scottish winter mileage , Climb before I'm 30 , Get sendy winter 24 , Winter Progression

Feedback

User Date Notes
giknockerpod 27 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Very lean conditions yesterday. Would be easier with ice/consolidated snow on it.
Show beta
βeta: Very lean conditions yesterday. Would be easier with ice/consolidated snow on it.
arose 11 Jan Show βeta
βeta: The two big blocks that you have to step on (just after the crux) are very loose.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The two big blocks that you have to step on (just after the crux) are very loose.
elizabethporter 6 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Guidebook description is quite misleading. It talks about gaining the rib and continuing up a steep step, which led me onto a steep corner with ab tat which was much harder than 4. Was later informed that the actual line takes the fault to the left of the arete - don't go all the way to the top of the ridge go left first. The line takes the fault between the big crack with the chockstones and the arete itself.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Guidebook description is quite misleading. It talks about gaining the rib and continuing up a steep step, which led me onto a steep corner with ab tat which was much harder than 4. Was later informed that the actual line takes the fault to the left of the arete - don't go all the way to the top of the ridge go left first. The line takes the fault between the big crack with the chockstones and the arete itself.
rogerwebb 2 Aug, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: 1st August 2024. Interesting rock fall quite high up. Guessing half way up second pitch. Can be avoided by a hard left traverse to more solid rock. There's a very detached flake about 3 metres tall that's slightly unerving as you pass immediately to it's left. Not a good place to solo. It's more wobbly than last November.
Show beta
βeta: 1st August 2024. Interesting rock fall quite high up. Guessing half way up second pitch. Can be avoided by a hard left traverse to more solid rock. There's a very detached flake about 3 metres tall that's slightly unerving as you pass immediately to it's left. Not a good place to solo. It's more wobbly than last November.
Alexander_Metcalfe 23 Mar, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Would not use the tat & mailon at the top of Anvil Gully to ab in. The rope ran over way to many surfaces going down. Better to sling the large boulder at the top of the gully for a cleaner and direct ascent.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Would not use the tat & mailon at the top of Anvil Gully to ab in. The rope ran over way to many surfaces going down. Better to sling the large boulder at the top of the gully for a cleaner and direct ascent.
JackLucas 10 Dec, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Feels way harder than the III 4 grade, particularly some of the moves on pitch 2!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Feels way harder than the III 4 grade, particularly some of the moves on pitch 2!

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Voting
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
High II/III
Mid II/III
Low II/III
Votes cast 49
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 36
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sparkler

Grade: III ***
(Sgor Gaoith (Gleann Einich))

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