130m, 3 pitches.
The rib between The Runnel finishing up the steeper rocks. Start at the base of the rib and climb the prominent groove to easier ground. There is now an easy finish parallel to the Runnel. The route takes either of the two deep grooves in the crest of the buttress. The left groove has a smooth start and is entered from the left to climb past an obvious small chokestone. The right hand groove is climbed direct and steepens to an awkward bulge which leads to a platform overlooking crotched gully. Step left into a narrow chimney leading to an easy finish.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Alexander_Metcalfe | 14 Feb, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good piece of tat to the left of the gulley for 1st belay and bomber 1st gear placement just round the corner. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Good piece of tat to the left of the gulley for 1st belay and bomber 1st gear placement just round the corner. |
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| pingora | 5 Mar, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: A lot of digging on crux pitch. Probably IV, 4 today. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A lot of digging on crux pitch. Probably IV, 4 today. |
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Guidebooks for Cairn Gorm - Stob Coire an t-Sneachda
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Route of Interest
Flake Buttress (Winter)
Grade: III ***
(Ben Macdui - Stob Coire Sputan Dearg)