UKC

Climbs 39
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 731m a.s.l
Faces all

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arran ridges © gregk

Crag features

Caisteal Abhail, commonly known as The Castles, has a cluster of 5 buttresses high on its southeast slopes. Some distance below these, in Coire na h-Uaimh, lies Portcullis Buttress.

Coire h-Uaimh slabs lie low down below the Coire within Glen Sannox itself. Approach time approximately 1.5 hours from road. This crag is probably the most popular at Caisteal Abhail due to its low elevation and quick (for Arran) accessibility.

Climbing is generally on excellent rock but the crag does get affected by seepage after heavy rain and some parts are slow to dry. The obvious features are a 60m pillar of rock running down left to right, centrally. (Quick drying). A huge clean slab area (top right) with a J shaped ramp running up its right side. (Slapstick) Both Slapstick and Prodigious located here are quick drying.

Descent South side can be tricky to locate. Keep close to the crag until a line of small cairns points the way down. If you reach the stream you have gone too far. North side cross the easy slabs until an obvious Heather rake can be seen sloping down to the base of the crag.

Approach notes

Approach via the Glen Sannox path until the path crosses the river towards "the Saddle". A faint path leads up the side of the stream on both sides. For Coire h-Uaimh slabs when the path fades head up towards the crag centrally picking a route that best avoids the Heather. A path does run along the base of the crag that can be joined

Approach time: 2 hours tors, 1.5 hours slabs.

 

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