UKC

Climbs 74
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 8m a.s.l
Faces S

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Busy day at Cala Magraner © Dane

Crag features

Cala Magraner is located in a lovely beachside position on the southeast coast amidst some of the tourist hotspots, and climbing here can take on a real holiday atmosphere. The climbs for the most part are technical wall climbs, usually encompassing tricky fingery cruxes, although there are a couple of steeper sections. There are some pleasant, easy slabs for beginners, and loads in the middle grades. The swimming is excellent. Be careful leaving any gear in your vehicle, as cars 

Access Advice

Do NOT park in the dirt track leading to several Villa's just along the road from the path to Cala Magraner. Several cars have been damaged as a protest by the locals.  

There is now plenty of room near the path to the beach :)

Heed the advice in the guidebook, there is a high chance your car will get broken into, even if you park on the road. Leave no valuables on display.

First visit since 2008….sadly the routes have a been climbed to a very high sheen of polish…..extremely unpleasant on a hot day. A shame but that’s popularity for you.
Zoomer - 15/Apr/22
The digital RockFax has the parking marked in the wrong place, down a private lane you can no longer drive down, and there is no good path from there. The written instructions - right at the T junction, and roadside parking by the rickety style (actually a gate) and following the dry riverbed… - is all pretty accurate though. So beware the pin on the RockFax map!
ivanadventure - 05/Nov/21
Is anything at this crag in the shade during the day? I'm going to be visiting in August (I know, crazy) and am trying to find anything that would be climbable
franklin - 03/Aug/15
Nice crag but the walk in was very overgrown and quite difficult to find. Beware of where you swim in the sea here, about 50-75m off shore there is a rip tide that will drag you towards the rocks on the left side - I got caught in this and it was not fun, be careful!
Robheirene - 11/Jul/15
After your session of climbs you should go for a swim out the bay. Approx. 50m(?)ish out on the left is what looks like a small sea 'cave'. Climb out on the left side where the roof meets the wall. Not so hard climbing but pretty sharp. Atop the 'cave' is a nice flat section of ground suitable to jump from. Awesome. :)
Keith-Getoutadventures - 23/Aug/09
Don't park in the space beside those mailboxes - we did and got our tyres slashed for the priviledge. Plus we didnt pay the extra 20euro for tyre insurance so we're £200 out of pocket. Not cool.
Conor1 - 12/Jun/08
Parking details in the 2006 ROCKFAX guide is a bit out of date. The "tiny lay-by" actually has room for around 10 cars now, using both sides of the road, and the rickety stile is immediately at the right-hand end of the wall as you face it. If you drive past a right-hand turn with a row of mailboxes, you have gone 100m too far.
Nick Smith - UKC - 17/Mar/08
Hello, we recently visited this crag! the guide book we had gave the aproach as being down a lane! well now that has changed! about 800m further along the road from the origonal aproach is a rather iffy looking home made (made from a couple ot twigs that had fallen of a couple of olive trees!) style and then a good path which takes you too the base of the crag as before! The local farmer was resonably helpful in pointing you in the right direction! Antony
Antony Wood - 27/Nov/05
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Climbs at this crag

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