Climbs 1
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 1733m a.s.l
Faces SW
Martina on L3 © Filippo Ghilardini
Located in the complex system of walls that we have named “California Dreamin',” Grand Hotel Piantonetto route is a “Wild” route. Although it is located in the eponymous and celebrated Vallone di Piantonetto, the granite heart of alpine Gran Paradiso, it is set on a slope and wall where there are no signs of anthropization, there are no other previously traced routes; although some curious and ancient metal cables, along the approach, suggest that shepherds practically arrived at the attack!
The climbing is varied but mostly crack climbing, however there is no shortage of some technical slabs and steep walls of huge-grained granite, to be climbed in fingertips as if we were in Tuolumne Meadows. The rock is excellent, with exceptional grip.
Its length suggests an early morning start, the approach is not long, not more than an hour and a half, but it is quite wild, part of the Wild experience! The first pitches face West and are therefore cooler and shadier, the higher you climb the more sun-kissed you will be, this allows climbing even in mid-season when there is no snow along the approach. Beware of scorching days.
Near the attack, along the creek bed, it is sometimes possible to find a few rivulets of water, but in late season do not rely on this too much.
The difficulties are not extreme but neither are they to be underestimated, in the first pitches in particular good skill in protecting yourself is required, especially with micro friends and small cams. A few obligatory steps require decision, otherwise this is a nice climb on medium difficulty, with very long and pleasant pitches.
Happy climbing to all, and let's preserve this very wild area!
Taking Orco Valley from Cuorgnè and then Pont Canavese, at Rosone take the crossroad Piantonetto valley. Passing San Lorenzo (excellent stopping point at Simona's trattoria) and San Giacomo, follow the valley road to the area called Casette mt. 1268. Park on the left going up, near a huge boulder present on the other side of the road, past the beak farmer's hut.
Cross the road and head toward the boulder, where there are old artificial routes. Cross and follow the course of the stream for a few tens of meters and climb as best you can up the evident scree sloping slightly to the right until it ends (large slab leaning against a tree), until you come close to a first rocky structure, which you overcome thanks to a small gully characterized by luxuriant ferns. Once past this, it is convenient to deviate to the right, to more easily cross the next gully.
You then reach a meadowy area in summer used for grazing goats, pointing to an obvious isolated birch tree(cairns). Continue vertically through meadows and gullies until you reach a bottleneck where the grass is very steep for a couple of meters (tree with cable), here bend right, taking advantage of the providential protruding roots of a laburnum (tiny cord on a branch) and ascend the gully for a few more dozen meters coming in sight of a characteristic rocky gendarme, on the left. Reach the small ridge and climb over it with a few steps downhill. Go up a few meters, follow a slender rock ledge, be careful if wet, and a more obvious section of trail/channel, until you reach a rocky shoulder, cairn. From here aim for the creek gorge, which is quickly reached, we are almost at the start. Before crossing the creek, continue on the hydro left for a few more meters uphill, until below a small rock jump and against a large smooth boulder (small drywall). Climb over it and cross the stream, then follow halfway up the meadows (fallen tree) to the left for a few meters and then start climbing again among the rhododendrons to the right. Bend slightly to the left, once against the rocky ledge, turn back toward the gully and force the last little jump with a short vertical passage. Continue to the right returning to the stream bed. Go up the scree for a few tens of meters and find the route's start, which is evident by rock-cleaning marks and a angle piton in a blind dihedral, left just to indicate the start. (1h total from the parking lot, but given the complexity of the terrain it may take up to an hour and a half).
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